Ketchikan, Alaska, the “Totem Pole Capital of the World,” features a remarkable collection of totem poles representing the stories of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian cultures. The best examples are at the Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight State Park.
If you’re arriving in Ketchikan by cruise ship and have limited time in port, which one should you visit? We visited both and the Potlatch Totem Park and share our experiences.
Docking location may play a deciding factor, the number of hours in port, and whether you choose to combine totem viewing with other excursions.
Historical Overview
Both Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight State Park are important cultural landmarks. They highlight the rich heritage of the Tlingit people through impressive totem carvings. Both parks are located outside downtown and can be reached on tour or by taking the local bus.
Early History Of Saxman Native Village
Saxman Village was established in the late 1800s when Tlingit people from Cape Fox and Tongass villages relocated. Its goal was to create a community that had access to Western education and religion.
The village, now owned by Cape Fox Corporation, is a living community and cultural site. It features over 20 totem poles and a clan house, showcasing traditional Tlingit artistry.
Origins Of Totem Bight State Park
Totem Bight State Historical Park was established later in the early 1900s. It aimed to preserve totem pole heritage as Native practices declined due to the growth of non-Native settlements.
The park rescued, restored, and replicated many original totem poles. Featuring beautiful surroundings, walking trails, totem poles, and a traditional clan house, it offers an immersive cultural experience.
Owned by the State of Alaska, Totem Bight is well-maintained and offers a pristine location along the waterfront.
Traveling From A Ketchikan Port
Choosing between Saxman Native Village or Totem Bight from your cruise ship could come down to where you dock. While both are outside downtown, they’re in opposite directions from Ketchikan.
Options From The Downtown Cruise Port
If your ship docks in Ketchikan’s downtown port, you can step off your vessel and walk to some totem poles and popular attractions such as Creek Street and the Lumberjack Show. Saxman Native Village is approximately 2-3 miles south of downtown. Visitors can take a tour or reach it by bus.
I chose to reach Saxman Native Village by using public transit. The Silver Line South bus costs USD 2 each way, and the trip took a mere ten minutes. The cost for a self-guided walk was USD 5. Do note that drop-off and pick-up are at different locations.
Take the Silver Line North bus for Totem Bight, located north of downtown. This trip takes approximately 30 minutes and costs USD 2 cash each way. Again, the entry fee is USD 5 and there are ticket machines at the entrance.
The buses run in each direction once an hour and are accessible by wheelchair. The bus drops off and picks up at the same location by the park’s entrance. We appreciated the small, covered bus shelter because it rained during our visit.
Options From Ward Cove
Your transportation options differ significantly from the newer Ward Cove cruise facility, located about 7 miles north of downtown Ketchikan. Ward Cove’s location puts you much closer to Totem Bight State Historical Park, making it more accessible.
For the Saxman Village option, a cruise line tour offers convenience but costs more money. We recommend taking the complimentary shuttle service from Ward Cove to downtown for a more affordable option, providing you have time. From there, follow the transportation options listed above.
Since some Norwegian Cruise ships spend limited time in Ward Cove, a tour is advisable for ships docked under six hours. Cruise guests can choose a tour or use public transit for Totem Bight. If you choose the latter, you must cross the N Tongass Hwy, a busy road with fast-moving traffic.
I took the Trolley to Potlatch Totem Park which is next to Totem Bight State Historical Park. With my USD 50 shore credit perk, this tour was complimentary. Here are the travel times by city bus.
| Port | Saxman Village | Totem Bight |
|---|---|---|
| Downtown to: | 10 mins | 30 mins |
| Ward Cove to: | 45 mins | 10 mins |
Bus Or Tour?
Both Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight have accessible transportation options. Your choice depends on budget constraints and how much information you want about carved totem poles during your visit.
Bus Saves Money
Taking the city bus to either totem park is the most economical option. But bear in mind that buses run once an hour and make many stops. The trip to Saxman Village is fast, while the route to Totem Bight takes much longer.
By skipping the cruise line tour to Saxman Native Village, we couldn’t attend the cultural dance or enter the carving shed. We did, however, watch the carving through large windows.
Totem Bight Park has many more interpretive signs, so we felt our self-guided tour gave a good overview of this park.
Tours Offer An Expanded Experience
A Guided tour offer a comprehensive experience with access to areas independent visitors might miss. Tours usually come with a guide who explains the carved totem poles and images on them.
They share the cultural significance and stories behind each one. Guides often have connections to local tribes and can offer authentic insights.
With a deeper experience at the parks, tours take more time. So, these are ideal for those seeking a cultural experience and not wanting to explore other parts of Ketchikan. The downside to a tour is trying to get good photos without people in them.
If you intend to visit more than one park, taking a tour of both may not be necessary. I found the commentary on the walkabouts very similar. What wood is used, tools for carving, how the paints are made, and what the symbols of a pole represent.
Visiting Saxman Native Village
At Saxman Native Village, visitors can experience the rich heritage of the Tlingit people. They can see totem poles up close, offering a meaningful glimpse into Alaska’s Indigenous culture.
Tour Options And Activities
A guided tour at Saxman Native Village provides the most enriching experience, as the stories behind the totems are a significant part of the visit. A tour includes learning about carving in the totem shed and watching a Tlingit dance and storytelling in the clan house.
Self-guided tours are also available for USD 5 per person, which includes an informative brochure describing each totem. The village features one of the world’s largest collections of totem poles on Totem Row and near the gift shop.
Many of the totems at the park are authentic replicas of original poles rescued from abandoned villages. The gift shop offers authentic Native artwork and crafts created by local artisans.
When visiting, we recommend respecting the site’s cultural significance. Photography is generally permitted, but we suggest asking before taking pictures of artisans or performers.
I noticed some totems were damaged or missing parts, part of their natural aging process. Ketchikan’s wet weather plays havoc on wood, particularly seen in the Thunderbird Whale Pole and Kats & Bear Wife Pole. These imperfections add character and tell their own story about the passage of time.
Comfortable walking shoes and rain gear are essential. We experienced a rain shower during our visit but were prepared with jackets and umbrellas.
Totem Bight State Historical Park
Totem Bight State Historical Park features restored and newly carved totem poles just ten miles north of Ketchikan. This 11-acre site showcases Native Alaskan heritage through impressive traditional art.
The entrance fee for Totem Bight State Park is reasonable and charged from May to September. Outside of these months, it’s complimentary. Totem Bight doesn’t have a gift shop, or person collecting the entrance fee.
Exploring The Park And Potlatch Totem Park
After visiting Totem Bight, I thought it offered a more picturesque setting than Saxman Native Village. Its clan house is of the same design, with an interior fireplace and beautifully carved supports. However, no cultural dance performances were held there.
Meandering pathways throughout the park grounds feature totem poles, each with their own stories. How many creatures can you count on each pole? Popular symbols include the eagle, frog, Blackfish (Killer Whale), and raven. Even though it rained, we appreciated the park’s beautiful location.
Like Saxman Native Village, master carvers continue preservation work there. They carve authentic replicas using traditional methods. Red Cedar is a top choice for carving, valued for its longevity, strength, and ease of carving.
Traditional symbols and figures tell stories of clan histories, legends, and cultural beliefs of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples. Some were even carved to ridicule individuals.
Next door, Potlatch Park features five clan houses, its own collection of totem poles, and some vintage cars. I particularly liked the dragon poles and was told its scales were painted by kids on a Disney Cruise ship.
The vintage car collection was a big hit with many visitors. If you’re heading to Totem Bight Park independently, it makes sense to visit both.
Combining A Totem Park Visit With Other Tours
If you only have a day in Ketchikan, we recommend combining a totem park visit with another attraction. The Lumberjack Show makes an excellent companion to a totem park visit.
Wildlife viewing at Herring Cove during salmon runs can be paired with Saxman Native Village. This combination allows you to experience both cultural heritage and Alaska’s natural beauty in one outing.
With a long port day, visiting a totem park and spending the balance of the day exploring Ketchikan is another excellent option. We did this on one of our trips. Other must-visit attractions include the salmon ladder, Creek Street, and the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center.
If you’re looking to dive deeper into local culture, try pairing a visit to one of the outdoor totem parks with a stop at the Native Totem Heritage Center.
Can You Visit Both On The Same Day?
Yes, it’s possible to visit both Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight State Park in a single day. These two cultural attractions are located relatively close to each other in the Ketchikan area.
The two sites are approximately 10 miles apart, with Saxman being closer to downtown Ketchikan and Totem Bight situated further north. We recommend allocating 1-2 hours for each location to fully appreciate the intricate totem pole carvings and cultural significance.
We recommend booking a tour that covers both locations or renting a car. Turo is an inexpensive option that we’ve used in many Alaskan ports.
For the best experience at Saxman, consider taking a guided tour. Totem Bight can be explored more independently, with informative signage explaining the various poles and their meanings. The park’s beautiful waterfront setting adds to its appeal.
If time is limited, choose one location or aim to do Totem Bight and Potlatch Park which sit side by side. Both are worthwhile but offer slightly different experiences of Alaska Native culture and artistry. While we have visited both Saxman Village and Totem Bight, we did them on two separate visits to Alaska.
Other Locations For Totem Poles
Ketchikan, being the totem capital of the world, has many poles scattered around downtown. Here are some to consider:
- Chief Johnson Totem Pole – on the corner of Stedman and Mill Streets.
- Council of the Clans Totem Pole Circle – at Cape Fox Lodge
- Chief Kyan Totem Pole is located in Whale Park on Mill Street.
- The Easter Totem Pole – at 400 Main Street.
- Sun Raven Totem Pole – 600 Stedman Street.
Visitors can view the above totem poles without walking far with or without a totem park visit. None of these totem poles require a fee to visit.
Choosing between Saxman Native Village and Totem Bight State Park isn’t cut and dry. Saxman Park is the best choice for watching a native dance performance. However, Totem Bight wins for its picturesque setting and beautiful nature trails.
Docking location and time in port will also play a significant factor in your final choice.
